Fruit acids. AHA with the name Alpha hydroxy acids is a group of acids found in fruits, sour milk (lactic acid), fermentation sugar and other fermentation products. Their low pH allows the gas to dissolve.

Fruit acids: Why are they good for your skin? 

When applied to the skin, the acids dissolve lipids (sebum) that hold the cellular bonds of the stratum corneum at the skin's surface. Once dissolved, the surface intercellular stratum corneum removes the flakes and dead cells, resulting in soft skin that is able to absorb active substances. 

BHA with the name of Beta hydroxy acids is another group of acids found in plant inflorescences. The best known and most common is salicylic acid, which also has an anti-bacterial role. 

At a lower concentration these acids help the skin's moisturization level. As the concentration increases, in addition to removing the stratum corneum, dissolving comedones and sebum, it can also remove and "even out" roughness in the skin. Basically these acids decrease the cohesion of the corneocytes affecting the thickness of the stratum corneum, in optimal concentrations depending on the type of skin and its condition the result of their application helps the flexibility of the stratum corneum.

GOMAGE or PEELING? 

Both are applied in the first part of the cosmetic treatment. They represent a phase of deep cleansing of the skin and have the role of:

• removal of the superficial cutaneous layer of the epidermis;
• eliminate dead cells, have keratolytic action;
• eliminates excess sebum.

Which then leads to increased brightness and smoothness of the complexion and better penetration of the products in the treatment protocol. 

Gomajul - The etymology of the word is of French origin and is most often associated with the mechanical procedure of cleansing with creams containing small granules of apricot kernel, almond, jojoba, argan, or dried plant powders, coffee. Thanks to the manual circular movements performed on the face, it removes roughness and the stratum corneum and has keratolytic action.

Peeling - a word from the English etymology - involves a chemical action of dissolving and removing comedones, sebum, by destroying the chemical cellular bonds of the epidermal surface layers. 

Fruit acids: Depending on the concentration of acids is the depth of action of the peeling:

- superficial - it acts on the epidermis and removes dandruff, cleanses pores and dissolves excess sebum, reduces some pigmentation spots;

- medium - acts almost at dermal level, removes the epidermis, using acids in higher concentrations and are recommended to be used by specialists;

- deep - they penetrate deep into the dermis and are performed in dermato-cosmetic surgeries.

The procedures give the sensation of stinging, redness, and in aggressive cases burning.

These procedures have enzymatic action given by fruit or plant enzymes and are the main procedures that exfoliate and cleanse the skin. 

Skin with rosacea, couperose will not undergo deep peeling procedures with high concentrations of AHAs. 

For oily skin the most effective are these peelings with fruit acids, combined with mechanical removal of dead cells with abrasive particles.

Maria Mihaiu

Cosmetician & Cosmetic Trainer

Schedule: 

Tel. 0722 745 679

Website: www.mariamaria.ro

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